Discover Filey: A Tranquil Retreat for the Soul

Filey has always been on my radar growing up in north east England. I love the chaos of a big city break. The madness of Hanoi, the sensory overload of Marrakech, and the sheer “go-go-go” of New York.

But sometimes my soul is tired. I don’t want a “destination.” I don’t want a checklist of 50 things I have to see before I die. I don’t want to queue for three hours for a viral biscoff/Dubai chocolate croissant.

I want wind. I want big, dramatic skies. I want a cup of tea that is the colour of He-Man’s tan. I want to stare at the North Sea until my brain goes quiet.

Filey delivers all this in spades and with more to spare.

If you aren’t from the UK (or even if you are), you might know its louder, brasher neighbours, Scarborough and Whitby. Scarborough is the fun aunt who drinks too much prosecco and loves the slot machines. Whitby is the goth cousin who’s really into Dracula and jet jewellery.

Filey is the elegant grandmother who has aged gracefully, knows exactly who she is, and will serve you the best fish and chips of your life without making a fuss about it.

It is a glorious, unspoiled time capsule on the North Yorkshire coast. It’s Edwardian elegance, it’s rugged cliffs, and it’s arguably the best beach in England. Yes, I said it.

It’s the perfect place if you want to spend some time hiding from the world. If you need to reset your factory settings, here is exactly how to do it.

How To Get Here

Filey sits on the East Coast of Northern England. It feels remote, which is exactly the point. However it’s actually surprisingly accessible.

1. The Train (The Scenic Route)

There is something undeniably romantic about taking the train to the seaside. You watch the grim industrial estates fade away, replaced by rolling green hills and eventually, that first glimpse of the grey-blue sea.

The Route: Filey has its own station (thank god), which is a charming little Victorian throwback. You’ll likely need to change at Seamer or Hull if you’re coming from the south, or Scarborough if you’re playing hopscotch along the coast.
The Vibe: It’s not high-speed. It’s a chugging, rattling Northern Rail experience. Grab a window seat, open a beer (it’s legal on trains here in the UK if you’re reading from abroad), and enjoy the view of the Yorkshire Wolds.
The “Last Mile”: The station is right in the town thankfully. You step off the platform and you can smell the salt. It’s a 5-minute walk to the sea. Easy.

2. The Car (The A64 Slog)

If you’re driving, you’re likely coming via the A64 from York.

The Warning: The A64 is a road designed by a sadist. On a sunny Bank Holiday Friday, it is a car park. If you are driving in summer, leave at 6 AM or 8 PM. Do not leave at 10 AM, or you will spend the first day of your holiday looking at the bumper of a caravan.
Parking: Filey is actually decent for parking compared to Whitby (which is a nightmare).
- Country Park: Top of the cliffs near the Brigg. huge, grassy, paid parking. Great views.
- Coble Landing: Right on the beach slipway. Gets full fast.
- Street Parking: In the residential streets further back from the sea, it’s free. Just be respectful of the locals’ driveways.

3. The Bus (The Coastliner)

The Coastliner 840/843 was once voted the “Most Scenic Bus Route in Britain.” It goes from Leeds/York across the moors to the coast. If you’re on a budget and have time to spare, sit on the top deck at the front. It’s like a rollercoaster that goes 40mph.

Where to Stay: Victorian grandeur or “The Bay”?

Filey doesn’t really do “cool” boutique hotels with exposed brick and Edison bulbs. It does traditional hospitality, and it does it well.

1. The “Classic” Experience (The Crescent)

Walk along The Crescent and you’ll feel like you’re in Bath or London’s Kensington. It’s a sweeping curve of white stucco buildings overlooking the gardens and the sea.

White Lodge Hotel: This is the Grande Dame. It’s right on the end of the Crescent. It’s got that old-school service where they actually remember your drink order. The rooms have epic sea views. It feels like stepping into an Agatha Christie novel (in a good way, minus the murders).
Downcliffe House: A bit further along the front, this is a boutique hotel that’s surprisingly chic. Great food, lovely rooms, and right on the promenade.

2. The “Modern Family” Experience (The Bay)

About 3 miles south of the town centre is a massive development called The Bay Filey.

The Vibe: It’s a holiday village of New England-style clapboard houses and apartments. It looks like Cape Cod was airlifted into Yorkshire.
Pros: You get a whole house or apartment. There’s a pool, a pub, and direct access to the beach (a steep walk, but worth it). It’s incredibly dog-friendly.
Cons: You’re not in Filey town. You’ll need to drive or walk 45 minutes along the beach to get to the fish and chips.
Verdict: If you have kids and a dog, stay here. It’s zero stress.

3. Stay In A Caravan

Caravans Have Come A Long Way: This will probably make people of a certain age shudder with bad memories of holidays past. However there are a lot of caravan parks nearby that have modern caravans that are spacious, warm and well kitted out. I recently stayed in one at Haven at Reighton Sands five miles down the coast from Filey. My caravan was modern, and the site had everything I needed if I didn’t want to go out anywhere.
Pros: You can fit a family of six in most of them and if you can go out of season they are incredibly cheap. I got five days at the start of November for £69.
Cons: You need a car. First to get there and also to get around as you’re within reach of Filey but not in Filey.

4. The “Proper Yorkshire” B&B

The streets behind the seafront are packed with Guest Houses.

The Rule: Look for the “Full Yorkshire Breakfast” promise. If they don’t offer black pudding, run away.
Recommendation: Check out places like The All Seasons or Seafield Guest House. They are usually run by a couple who will talk your ear off and give you the best local tips.

What to See & Do: Wind, Rocks, And Dragons

You don’t come to Filey for adrenaline. You come for “The Bracing Walk.” This is a British institution where you battle 30mph winds, get sprayed by the sea, and then feel incredibly smug about it afterwards in the pub.

1. The Beach (All 5 Miles Of It)

Filey Bay is a sweeping, five-mile curve of golden sand.

Why it wins: Unlike Brighton (rocks) or parts of Scarborough (crowded), Filey Beach is vast. Even in the height of summer, if you walk 10 minutes away from the main slipway, you will have acres of space.
The Activity: Walking. Just walk. Walk south towards Reighton Gap and the cliffs get higher and the world gets quieter. If the tide is out, the sand is hard-packed and perfect for cricket, running, or just contemplative trudging.

2. Filey Brigg (The Dragon’s Tail)

Look to the north end of the bay. See that long, jagged finger of rock jutting out into the ocean? That’s the Brigg.

The Geology: It’s a biological SSSI (Site of Special Scientific Interest). It protects the bay from the worst of the North Sea storms.
The Legend: Local folklore says it was built by the Devil to sink ships, but he dropped his hammer in the sea. Another says it’s the fossilised bones of a dragon.
The Walk: You can walk along the top (The Carr Naze) for spectacular views, or at low tide, you can scramble over the rocks at the bottom.
Pro Tip: Check the tide times. Seriously. People get cut off here every year and have to be rescued by the RNLI. Don’t be that tourist. But if the tide is low, the rockpooling here is world-class. Crabs, starfish, anemones—it’s a natural aquarium.

3. Coble Landing

This is the heart of the seafront.

The Cobles: These are the traditional high-prowed fishing boats unique to this coast. They are colourful, rugged, and still used today. You’ll see them being dragged up the steep slipway by battered old tractors.
The Vibe: It’s bustling. There are lifeboats, cafes, and the smell of diesel and fish. It’s real. It’s not a museum exhibit; it’s a working slipway.

4. Glen Gardens

Just behind the sea wall is a Victorian park that hasn’t changed since 1920.

Why go? It’s charming. There’s a boating lake with ancient pedalos. There’s a bandstand where brass bands actually still play on Sundays. It’s the sort of place where you expect to see people in top hats. It’s a lovely, sheltered spot if the wind on the beach is too much.

5. Bempton Cliffs (The Puffin Pilgrimage)

Okay, this is technically a 10-minute drive (or a sturdy coastal hike) south of Filey, but you have to go.

RSPB Bempton Cliffs: This is one of the best places in the UK to see seabirds. Between April and July, half a million birds nest on these massive white chalk cliffs.
The Star: Puffins. The clowns of the sea. You can see them waddling around and diving for fish. It is impossible to look at a puffin and not smile. It heals the soul.

The Food: Grease, Batter, and Crustacea

Filey is not a Michelin-star hub. If you want foam and deconstructed plates, go to York. Filey is about comfort food. It’s about food that hugs you from the inside.

1. Fish And Chips (The Holy Grail)

You are on the Yorkshire Coast. If you eat pizza, you are wasting your life. You must eat Fish and Chips.

The Debate: Locals will fight to the death over who is best.
Inghams Fish Restaurant: This is the OG. It’s on the main street. It’s small, tiled, and smells of beef dripping. The batter is light, the fish is flaky, and the tea is strong.
Gold River: A solid contender. Great portions, slightly more modern vibe.
Brown Room: Another local favourite.
My Verdict: Inghams. Get the Haddock (Yorkshire people prefer Haddock to Cod—it has more flavour). Get plenty of salt and vinegar. Get “scraps” (the loose bits of fried batter) if you want to accelerate your heart disease but taste nirvana. Take it down to the beach. Fight the seagulls for it. Show them who’s boss and win.

2. Dressed Crab (The Local Delicacy)

Filey is a fishing town. Specifically, crab and lobster.

Where to get it: Down at Coble Landing, there are little stalls selling seafood pots.
What to order: A dressed crab. This is the crab meat picked out and put back into the shell—white meat on one side, brown meat (the rich, pâté-like stuff) on the other.
How to eat it: With a wooden fork, a squeeze of lemon, and some brown bread and butter. It tastes like the ocean.

3. Afternoon Tea

Because we are civilised once in a while.

Frothies: A quirky spot on the landing.
Angela’s Tea Rooms: In town. Doilies, mismatched china, and scones the size of a baby’s head.
The Rule: Jam first, then cream. We are not in Cornwall. Actually, wait… no, don’t start that war here. Just eat the scone.

4. Pizza (Okay, Fine, If You Must)

Sometimes you just need carbs that aren’t fried.

San Marco: A really solid Italian place on the main street. It’s family-run, loud, friendly, and the garlic bread is legendary. It’s the place you go for a “nice dinner out” in Filey.

The “Booze”: Whiskey. Gin and Warm Ales

You might think a quiet seaside town is all Horlicks and hot cocoa. You’d be wrong.

1. Spirit of Yorkshire Distillery (Field To Bottle)

This is the big news. A few years ago, some locals decided to make Yorkshire’s first Single Malt Whisky.

The Place: It’s in Hunmanby, literally a 5-minute drive or a short train hop from Filey.
The Drink: Filey Bay Whisky. It is excellent. It’s winning awards globally. It’s light, fruity, and creamy—not a peaty smoke-bomb like an Islay scotch.
The Visit: Do the tour. It’s fascinating. They grow the barley on the farm nearby, they brew it, they distill it. Then sit in the “Pot Still Coffee Shop” and have a dram. It’s world-class quality in a tiny village.

2. Filey Gin Distillery (Amazing Local Gin)

Located in a 160-year-old former herring smokehouse on the North Yorkshire coast, Filey Distillery is a relatively new craft distillery that has quickly gained a reputation for its award-winning spirits.

The building itself is a piece of local history, still featuring original soot on the walls and ship’s masts in the roof from its days as a smokehouse.

Location: 19 Queens Terrace (or West Road access), Filey, YO14 9LR. It is tucked behind the first row of terraced houses—locals often describe it as a “hidden gem” down a small track.
Tours & Tastings: They offer Micro Tours, where you can meet the makers, see the copper pot still (named “Lucy”), and learn about the coastal botanicals used in their recipes.
The Shop: There is an on-site micro-shop where you can buy bottles, miniatures, and branded glassware.

The Gins

The distillery focuses on small-batch production, with two flagship products:

Filey Signature Gin: A classic, sophisticated dry gin featuring juniper, cardamom, and angelica. It recently won a Master’s Medal at the Spirit Business Gin Masters.
Filey Pink Gin: A modern take on a traditional recipe. It uses bitters for colour and flavour (including cassia and cinchona bark) along with local Filey rhubarb and strawberries.

Visitor Information

Opening Hours: Generally open Monday to Friday, 10:00 AM – 2:00 PM, though some sources suggest they may be open later on weekends during peak seasons.
Booking: It is highly recommended to book tours in advance via their website or by calling 01723 671615.

2. The Pubs (The Locals)

The Star Inn: On Mitford Street. This is a “proper” pub. No loud music, just good ale, a dartboard, and a fire in winter. It’s a Samuel Smith’s pub, which means the beer is incredibly cheap (we’re talking under £3 a pint sometimes), but you can’t use your phone or swear. It’s an experience.
Bonhommes Bar: A quirky little micro-pub vibe. Good selection of craft beers and gins.
The Boat Shed: Down near the sea. Great for a gin and tonic while watching the people walk by.

3. The Coble Landing Pint

There is a specific joy to buying a plastic cup of lager from the little kiosk on the Coble Landing, sitting on the sea wall, and watching the tide come in. Is it the best beer you’ll ever drink? No. Is it the best moment you’ll have? Probably.

The Verdict

Filey isn’t trying to be Ibiza. It’s not even trying to be Brighton.

It is unapologetically itself. It’s a place where the biggest excitement of the day is watching the lifeboat practice launch, or finding a particularly nice pebble on the beach.

And in a world that is constantly screaming for your attention, constantly pinging you with notifications and “must-do” experiences, Filey offers you something much more valuable.

Peace.

It offers you the chance to stop. To breathe. To eat a bag of chips until your fingers are greasy and salty. To walk until your legs ache and your head is clear.

So, pack a jumper (even in August—trust me.) Bring a good book, and leave your pretensions at the A64 roundabout. Filey is waiting, and the kettle is already on.

Filey – A Place To Recharge The Soul …