Let me tell you about Scarborough! Just the name conjures up images of salty air, sandy toes, and the comforting clang of arcade machines. It’s one of those quintessential British seaside towns that, despite the ever-changing world, still manages to retain its classic charm. And let me tell you, it’s a charm worth experiencing.
I’ve been visiting Scarborough for as long as I can remember. Family holidays, cheeky weekend getaways with mates, romantic strolls with the missus – this town has seen it all when it comes to me. And every single time, it delivers. It’s the salty air whipping through your hair, the distant cry of gulls, the sheer unadulterated joy of a proper British seaside holiday.
Getting There: The Journey is Part of the Fun (Mostly!)
First things first, how do you get your glorious self to this coastal gem? Well, you’ve got options, and as someone who appreciates a good strategic plan (especially when it involves getting to a new eating establishment), let’s break them down.
By Car
This is often my preferred method, mainly because it means I can pack an absurd amount of snacks and don’t have to share my playlist. If you’re coming from the south, you’ll likely hit the A1(M) and then branch off onto the A64, which will take you pretty much all the way to Scarborough. From the north, it’s generally the A19 then the A171 or A170.
Now, a word to the wise: in peak season, that A64 can get a bit… cosy. Think of it as an opportunity to practice your carpool karaoke. The drive itself, once you’re off the main motorways, is lovely, especially as you start to get closer to the coast and the landscape opens up. There’s something truly satisfying about seeing that first glimpse of the sea. Parking in Scarborough can be a bit of a game, especially right by the seafront, so I always recommend looking for your accommodation first and checking their parking situation. Many guesthouses and hotels offer permits or have their own spots, which is a massive win.
By Train
For those who prefer to let someone else do the driving (and who can blame you, more time for reading about where to eat!), the train is a fantastic option. Scarborough has its own railway station, well-connected to major cities like York, Manchester, and London King’s Cross (via a change at York). The journey itself is rather picturesque, particularly the final leg as you chug alongside the stunning Yorkshire Wolds. There’s a certain romance to arriving by train, stepping out into the fresh sea air, and knowing your adventure has truly begun. Plus, no designated driver needed, which means maximum enjoyment of any local libations!
By Bus/Coach
National Express runs services to Scarborough from various parts of the UK. It’s often the most budget-friendly option, and while it might take a little longer, it’s a perfectly viable way to get there. Local bus services also connect Scarborough to surrounding towns and villages, which is handy if you fancy exploring further afield once you’ve arrived.
Whichever way you choose, remember that the journey is part of the experience. Put on some tunes, grab a good podcast, or just gaze out the window and let the anticipation build. Because trust me, Scarborough is worth every mile.
Where to Lay Your Weary Head: From Grand Hotels to Cosy B&Bs
Scarborough has accommodation options to suit every taste, budget, and desire for sea views. Whether you’re after a grand Victorian experience or a quirky, independent bolthole, you’ll find it here.
Grand & Traditional
If you’re like me and appreciate a bit of history and grandeur with your stay, then look no further than the iconic Grand Hotel. Perched majestically on the clifftop, overlooking the South Bay, this Victorian behemoth is a landmark in itself. It might be a little rough around the edges in places, but you can’t beat the location or the sheer scale of the place. It’s like stepping back in time, and the views are simply breathtaking. Perfect for those who want to feel like they’re in a classic postcard.
Boutique & Charming
For something a bit more intimate and perhaps a touch more modern, Scarborough has a fantastic array of boutique hotels and guesthouses. I’m a big fan of the independent places, where you often get a real personal touch. Many of these are clustered around the quieter North Bay or slightly set back from the main hustle and bustle of the South Bay. Look for places that offer home-cooked breakfasts – a full English by the sea is a religious experience, I tell you.
Self-Catering
If you’re staying for a while, or prefer the flexibility of cooking some of your own meals (great for saving pennies and trying out local produce!), self-catering apartments and cottages are plentiful. This can be a brilliant option for families or groups of friends. There’s nothing quite like having your own space, especially when you’ve just scoffed a ridiculous amount of fish and chips and need to collapse on a sofa.
Camping & Caravanning
For the outdoorsy types, or those on a tighter budget, there are several campsites and caravan parks both in and just outside Scarborough. These offer a different kind of experience, closer to nature, and often with stunning views. Imagine waking up to the sound of the waves and the smell of fresh sea air – bliss!
My top tip for accommodation? Book in advance, especially if you’re planning a trip during the summer months or school holidays. Scarborough gets wonderfully busy, and the best spots fill up fast. And always, always check recent reviews – you want to make sure your chosen haven lives up to its promise!
Sights to See: Beyond the Beach
Right, you’ve arrived, you’ve unpacked, and you’ve probably already had a good sniff of that bracing sea air. Now what? Scarborough is packed with things to see and do, far beyond just lounging on the sand (though that’s highly recommended too!).
Scarborough Castle
This is an absolute must-see. Perched dramatically on the headland between the North and South Bays, the ruins of Scarborough Castle tell a story spanning thousands of years, from Roman signal stations to a mighty medieval fortress. Wander around the crumbling walls, imagine sieges and royal visits, and soak in the utterly panoramic views across both bays and out to the vast North Sea. It’s a truly evocative spot, and I could happily spend hours up there, just contemplating history and the sheer power of the ocean.
The Bays (North & South)
Scarborough is famously divided into two distinct bays, each with its own character.
South Bay
This is your classic, bustling seaside experience. Think golden sand, donkey rides, amusement arcades, fish and chip shops aplenty, and the iconic brightly coloured beach huts. It’s lively, a bit noisy, and absolutely wonderful. Perfect for families, or anyone who loves the traditional hustle and bustle of a British beach. You can stroll along the promenade, pop into the arcades for a cheeky 2p coin push, or brave a dip in the North Sea (it’s invigorating, I promise!).
North Bay 
In contrast, the North Bay is generally quieter, more serene, and arguably more beautiful in a natural sense. It’s a bit more rugged, with rock pools at low tide perfect for exploring with the kids (or just your inner child!). Here you’ll find the colourful Beach Chalets, the Peasholm Park (more on that in a sec!), and the Scarborough Open Air Theatre. It’s a fantastic spot for a more peaceful stroll, a picnic, or some serious rock pooling.
Peasholm Park
Oh, Peasholm Park!
This place is an absolute delight. Designed in a Japanese style, it’s an oasis of calm and beauty. You can hire a pedalo or a rowboat and explore the lake, wander through the stunning gardens, and if you’re lucky enough to be there in summer, catch the famous Naval Warfare display – a miniature battle re-enactment on the lake with model boats. It’s utterly charming, delightfully quirky, and a real crowd-pleaser. Seriously, don’t miss it.
The Rotunda Museum
For those with an interest in natural history and geology, the Rotunda Museum is a fascinating visit. Housed in one of the world’s first purpose-built museums, it focuses on the local geology and archaeology of the Yorkshire coast. It’s a surprisingly engaging little museum, perfect for an hour or two, especially on a rainy day.
SEA LIFE Scarborough
Always a hit with families, the SEA LIFE centre offers a chance to get up close and personal with marine creatures from around the world, as well as those found in the North Sea. From sharks to seals, it’s an educational and entertaining experience.
South Cliff Lift & Central Tramway
These are more than just ways to get up and down the cliffs; they’re charming pieces of Scarborough’s heritage. The South Cliff Lift takes you from the Esplanade down to the Spa complex, offering lovely views, while the Central Tramway connects the town centre with the South Bay. They’re both fun, quirky experiences and save your legs!
Walks, Walks, Walks!
Scarborough is surrounded by stunning coastal paths. You can walk for miles along the cliffs, heading south towards Filey or north towards Robin Hood’s Bay (a longer trek, but incredibly rewarding). The Cleveland Way National Trail passes right through Scarborough, offering endless opportunities for breathtaking hikes. Just remember sturdy shoes and a waterproof, this is Yorkshire after all!
Food, Glorious Food: A Culinary Tour of Scarborough
Now, my favourite part – the food! If you think Scarborough is just about fish and chips, you’re only half right. Yes, the fish and chips are legendary, but there’s a whole lot more to sink your teeth into.
Fish and Chips (Obviously!)
Let’s get the big one out of the way. You simply cannot come to Scarborough and not have fish and chips. It’s practically illegal. The key is to find a good one, and thankfully, there are many. My personal ritual involves finding a spot with crispy batter, perfectly cooked flaky white fish, and proper chip shop chips (none of your fancy skinny fries here, thank you very much). Then, it’s a generous dousing of salt and vinegar, and either finding a bench overlooking the sea or, if I’m feeling brave, braving the seagulls and eating them on the move. Some of the highly-rated spots include The Golden Grid on the South Bay (a classic) and Mister Chips. But honestly, wander around, follow your nose, and look for a queue – that’s usually a good sign!
Seafood Galore
Beyond battered delights, Scarborough is a haven for fresh seafood. You’ll find stalls selling freshly caught crab and lobster sandwiches right on the harbour. There’s nothing quite like a proper crab sarnie, made with local brown crab meat, on thick white bread, with a generous spread of butter. Simple, fresh, and utterly delicious. Look out for local restaurants that specialise in seafood – you’ll find everything from pan-fried scallops to seafood platters.
Pub Grub & Hearty Meals
After a day of exploring, a good pub meal hits the spot. Scarborough has some great pubs, many with sea views or tucked away in charming side streets. Expect classic British fare – think pies, roasts, and other comforting dishes. Many pubs also offer a good selection of local ales, which, as a connoisseur of a fine brew, I highly recommend sampling. There’s something immensely satisfying about a pint of Yorkshire ale after a brisk walk along the cliffs.
Cafes & Tearooms
For a lighter bite, a proper brew, or a decadent afternoon tea, Scarborough’s cafes and tearooms are fantastic. You’ll find plenty offering delicious sandwiches, soups, and, of course, a glorious array of cakes and scones. A cream tea overlooking the bay? Yes, please! Perfect for a mid-morning pick-me-up or a relaxed afternoon treat.
Independent Restaurants
Don’t be fooled into thinking it’s all traditional fare. Scarborough has a growing independent food scene. You’ll find Italian restaurants like Giannis, curry houses, and modern British bistros, many of which champion local ingredients. A little bit of research beforehand (or just a good wander) can unearth some real culinary gems.
Sweet Treats
And finally, for those with a sweet tooth (which, let’s be honest, is all of us on holiday!), Scarborough won’t disappoint. Think rock, fudge, ice cream (a scoop of locally made ice cream, eaten on the pier, is mandatory), and donuts. Embrace the sugar rush; you’re on holiday!
A Few Parting Thoughts
Scarborough, for me, is more than just a place to visit; it’s an experience that stirs something deep within. It’s the sound of the waves, the taste of salt on your lips, the sight of the grand old buildings against the endless sea. It’s a place where history whispers from every stone of the castle, and childhood joy echoes from the arcades.
It’s a place to slow down, to breathe in the bracing air, and to simply enjoy the simple pleasures of life. So, pack your bags, bring your appetite, and prepare to fall in love with Scarborough. You might arrive as a visitor, but you’ll leave feeling like you’ve been welcomed home. And trust me, you’ll be planning your return before you’ve even left. Go on, get yourselves to Scarborough – you won’t regret it!